I added some pics of my multilink rear suspension experiments to the gallery. There are 2 versions of the suspension in it, however right now i'm working on version number 3, removing a lot of the flaws of the first two.
A stronger U- joint, very nice. Pity it is quite space consuming. Still when one considers the scale of the Challenger, I presume it is 1:6, and the weight that comes with it, the stronger U-joint is a logical solution.
Well, the U-joint is a must. The rear cross arm will be made similar as the front suspension arm with the spring mount - ball joints on both ends. The attchment point is moved directly under the driving axle. I made a very smooth and sleek looking wheel hub, that is insanely strong. Btw... here is what i'm aiming for. It's not the suspension of the real challenger (though probably similar), but it's from a 07' Ford Expedition, which is a very tough vehicle by itself.
The technic ball joints are strong and work very smooth, the basis of a strong suspension therefore I suggest that you make a spring mount on the main arm, one with the technic ball joints on both ends. The attachment point of that arm can stay directly under the driving axle as long as you move the spring mount sideways to allow for necessary U-joint movement.
That was what i was referring to in the reply. Check out the gallery, i uploaded 5 more pics of the mk3 prototype, featuring exactly what you just said.
I see, you used the technic ball joint on just one side of the spring arm.
Btw Alex: can you tell me where you got your springs for the cylinders. I would need approximately 15-20 mm lenght and that they can be contracted for atleast 10mm. Of course that they fit nice onto cylinders, no sharp edges etc. What diameter are those on the pics? They look fine.
Outer diameter 14, inner diameter 13mm (1mm wire), height 23mm. I found a spring like this somewhere, saw that it fits perfectly, and took it to a springmaker, to make me more :)
I just might do the same thing, just have them made a bit shorter. Thanks.
Don't make them shorter. The way they are they fit and extend the cylinder to the max. If you make them shorter, this will mean, that once you lift the car off the ground, the suspension extends too much, because the cylinder will extend more. This is very unrealistic. the spring must be a tiny bit compressed even if there's absolutely no weight on the spring/shock absorber unit.
You are apsolutely right with what you said, but in my case they need to be a bit shorter, check my front suspension setup on my BS, you will see that I made a physical limit to how much the cylinder can extend, approximately 2/3 of max. I did this to make the whole module not too high, therefore more realistic, the shocks spring absorber unit would be too high for the suspension I was aiming for. In my case the springs should be a bit shorter.
Either way thanks for the reply!